hello,
For a long time—about 10 or 15 years ago—I used to get the most unbearable itching, especially in autumn and winter. It always started behind my knees, then spread across the backs of my thighs, down to my shins and the fronts of my ankles. It got so bad I’d scratch until I bled. The marks would stay long after the itching passed, and every cold season, it would come right back. I thought it was just something I had to live with—until it wasn’t.
Doctors would often say the same thing: “Stay away from soap.” I always wondered why—wasn’t soap supposed to help? Looking back, I realise what they meant was not the soap itself, but the type of soap most people use. Commercial soap is often full of synthetic ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), artificial fragrances, colourants, and chemical additives used to harden the bars or prolong shelf life. These ingredients don’t just clean your skin—they strip it, irritate it, and disrupt its natural balance.
About eight or nine years ago, I started making my own soap. I used simple, nourishing oils. No synthetic lather boosters, no perfumes, no artificial colours. Just honest, old-fashioned soap made with intention. I didn’t change my habits overnight, but slowly, over time, something changed. One day, I realised that my skin wasn’t itchy anymore. I hadn’t scratched my legs in months. The winter rashes never came back. The marks faded. I didn’t even notice when it stopped—I just knew it hadn’t come back.
Since then, I’ve even started using my handmade soap as shampoo. It feels completely normal—clean, natural, and simple. Sure, it’s not as slick or shiny as commercial shampoo, and I don’t use a conditioner bar or apple cider vinegar rinse. But I don’t need to. Sometimes there’s just a touch of balm left on my palms after moisturising my face or body, and that’s all my hair needs. No frizz. No dryness. Just hair that feels like my hair.
And on some busy days—when everything’s go-go-go—I forget to put on moisturiser (our balm) after my shower. Normally, that would’ve meant tight, dry, uncomfortable skin. But now? Still calm. Not itchy at all. It’s like my skin doesn’t panic anymore - it just stays calm and comfortable. It just feels okay. Balanced. Supported.
This shift in my skin and hair wasn’t just luck—it was about removing the unnecessary and returning to basics. And here’s a bit more on why I steer clear of synthetic-laden soap and what the difference really is:
The Science of SLS: What We Know Now
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is a powerful surfactant used in many conventional soaps, shampoos, and cleansers. It helps create foam and breaks down oils so dirt can be washed away. But this same efficiency is also why SLS can be irritating—especially to sensitive or dry skin.
Recent studies confirm that SLS can compromise the skin barrier. A 2023 review found that even low concentrations (0.5%) can cause visible irritation in nearly half of users after just two days of use. Meanwhile, longer exposure to 1% SLS concentrations was linked to irritant contact dermatitis. While SLS itself is not considered carcinogenic, its drying effects on the skin have prompted many to seek gentler alternatives.
What about people with skin conditions like eczema? You might assume they’re more vulnerable to SLS, but a 2023 British Journal of Dermatology study suggests sensitivity to SLS isn’t necessarily higher in people with atopic skin. Still, for anyone looking to maintain healthy skin, avoiding irritants is always a smart move.
Soap and pH: A Quiet Factor That Speaks Volumes
Now let’s talk about pH—a factor often overlooked but deeply important to skin health.
Our skin has a natural pH of around 4.7 to 5.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidity supports the skin’s acid mantle, a protective barrier that defends against bacteria, pollution, and moisture loss.
Traditional natural soap (especially cold-process soap) usually has a pH between 8 and 10. This alkaline level helps the soap cleanse and preserve itself, but it’s very different from our skin’s natural environment. High-pH soaps can temporarily disturb the skin’s acid mantle, potentially leading to dryness, tightness, and sensitivity—especially with frequent use.
That said, handmade soap has benefits, too: it's often free from synthetic surfactants (like SLS), rich in natural oils, and nourishing in ways synthetic cleansers aren’t. The pH issue isn’t a dealbreaker, but it’s worth understanding. Skin typically rebalances itself after cleansing, but some people—especially those with sensitive or dry skin—may want to choose pH-balanced or mildly acidic cleansers instead.
What About Soap-Free or Dermatologist-Recommended Cleansers?
I also remember doctors recommending soap-free alternatives—usually unscented, pH-balanced formulas sold in pharmacy bottles. These products are often designed to be as neutral and non-irritating as possible. For people with extreme sensitivities, allergies, or very reactive skin, these kinds of washes can absolutely help manage symptoms. They're free from perfumes, SLS, and many of the common triggers found in commercial soaps, and I respect that.
But for me, while they helped a little at first, I always felt like my skin was just coping, not thriving. It never truly felt nourished. It wasn’t until I switched to handmade soap—made with oils my skin could recognise and benefit from—that my skin really began to heal. It stopped flaking. The itching stopped. The redness faded. My skin felt comfortable again. And over time, it even started to glow.
So I’m not here to say one way is right and another is wrong. Every skin is different. But I believe we deserve the chance to choose something honest, nourishing, and made with care. Not filled with unnecessary additives. Just soap the way it used to be—simple, gentle, and made with love.
SLS vs. Natural Soap: What’s Actually Better for You?
Here’s a quick side-by-side to help you decide:
| Feature | SLS-Based Products | Natural High-pH Soaps |
|---|---|---|
| Cleansing Power | Strong, but harsh | Effective and gentle |
| Irritation Risk | High for sensitive skin | Mild, especially with oils |
| Skin Barrier Impact | Disrupts with repeated use | May alter pH, but skin rebalances |
| Natural Content | Mostly synthetic | Plant oils, lye, glycerin |
| Eco-Friendliness | Pollutes waterways | Biodegradable |
| Foam | High-lather, detergent-based | Creamy, soft lather |
| Customisation | One formula fits all | Handmade, tailored recipes |
In the end, choosing handmade, SLS-free soap isn’t just about what it does for your skin—though that part is life-changing. It’s about trusting what you put on your body. It’s about removing the unnecessary, reconnecting with simpler ingredients, and giving your skin space to breathe. It’s not always shiny or perfect, but it’s real, it’s gentle, and for me, it’s been the most natural solution of all.